“Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme” is a restaurant in Ikeda-cho, which is close to downtown Katamachi, Kanazawa. The long name of the restaurant reflects the passion of owner-chef Makoto Doi. "Installation" is a term used to describe the art of experiencing an entire space as a work. "ENSO" means "seasoning only with salt" in Japanese cuisine, " L'asymetrie" is asymmetrical, and "Calm" is silent. In the quiet environment of Kanazawa, it expresses the desire to serve the simple and pure taste of the dishes that make full use of all the techniques within oneself.
Owner-chef Doi, a native of Aichi Prefecture, came to Tokyo to become a washi craftsman. At the same time, he encountered Japanese cuisine through a part-time job, and trained at Japanese restaurants in the Kanto and Kansai areas. Later, he started to also enjoy western cuisine and discovered a deep passion for French dishes, stronger than that he felt for cuisine from any other country. After working as a chef at a French restaurant in Ginza, he went to Europe. He studied hard in Switzerland, Northern Europe, France and other countries for about four years before returning to Japan and opening his own restaurant in 2016.
Owner-chef Doi chose Kanazawa because of the pleasant environment and abundance of local ingredients. He mainly uses ingredients from the Hokuriku region and is a strong believer in the value of visiting the local producers to deepen relationships. The ingredients used in cooking are first introduced as illustrations to the guests. "You should be particular about tableware because the food arrives first with its smell and then with its appearance before guests begin eating." he said. There are many authors in Ishikawa, and most of the tableware are the works of those local authors, companies and artisans living in the area, such as Masaki SUSODA for the glass items, Akihiko SUGITA for the lacquer items, Yuichi TAKEMATA for the cutlery, and so on.
The standard menu item "chicken skin" is placed in a small wooden box. When you open the lid, you will see a dish of chicken liver mousse and rich chocolate from France's Valrhona. This is a special moment when you can enjoy both the excitement and beautiful artistic presentation when opening the box. The restaurant offers wine from all over Japan, as well as French, Italian, Spanish and other types of wine to pair with the food and their customers’ tastes.
Since the restaurant was originally a dressmaking school built in the Meiji period, while making the most of the original design, there are tables and other objects made of wood from the Hokuriku region, chairs from Spain, and other objects made by artists from Belgium, which harmonize the warmth of wood with its retro feel. The dining room has 14 tables and a private room (2 ~ 4 people), and as it is an open kitchen, you can see the chefs’ cooking styles and enjoy the aromas of the dishes as they are prepared. Visit Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calm and enjoy this unique food and space filled with the charm of Hokuriku and Kanazawa for private occasions such as with family and friends, dates, as well as hospitality for overseas guests.
* The availability of this webpage does not guarantee that the restaurant presented provides services in English, unless otherwise stated. Please be aware that English services may also depend on staff availability at the restaurant.
Take the JR Hokuriku Main Line (Maibara - Toyama) to Kanazawa Station then transfer to a bus to Katamachi Station and walk for 5 minutes