Iwamuro Onsen is known as the salon of Niigata City. Akari no Shokutei KOKAJIYA is almost in its center. Chef Seinosuke Kumakura shows his skills at this restaurant, which is in a renovated 120-year-old folk house.
Chef Kumakura began his career as a bartender in Okinawa. He won numerous prizes in cocktail competitions sponsored by the Nippon Bartenders’ Association (including second place in the 2006 Prime Minister’s Cup National Awamori Cocktail Competition). After teaching himself how to cook, he moved back to his hometown of Niigata. Following a stint as a catering chef, he opened Akari no Shokutei KOKAJIYA in 2013. In 2022, he opened Iwamuro Hisamoto, a private lodge alongside the restaurant, expanding the scope of his activities.
The name KOKAJIYA comes from the fact that the original hotspring inn of the main family was originally a blacksmith shop. The theme of the restaurant, which is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, is “onko chishin,” which means developing new ideas by learning from the past in both the food and the tableware, as well as its refined appearance. The restaurant makes the most of its location, with mountains in the back, the sea beyond the mountains, and plains (rice fields) spreading out around it. Chef Kumakura uses almost 100% local ingredients, while also incorporating plenty of local culture, such as fermented and dried foods born from the harsh winter climate.
During hunting season from November to February, Chef Kumakura, who is a licensed hunter, shoots ducks and pheasants in the fallow rice paddies. Restaurants in Tokyo typically let their ducks age, but at KOKAJIYA can you taste fresh duck shot that morning. The duck course is popular with many repeat customers. A whole duck is roasted on rice straw as a roast duck main dish. Consommé and other dishes using various parts of the duck are served for your enjoyment.
The handmade short pasta is made from stone ground flour produced by a neighboring farmer. Another item is abalone and shiitake mushrooms tossed in a thick, aromatic sauce made from seasonal ingredients. In addition, deserts are a specialty from Kumakura’s bartender days and are highly acclaimed, such as butterbur sprout tiramisu, which pairs well with the bitterness of coffee.
The drink menu also is particular about local products, with white, red, rosé, and orange wines from Niigata wineries such as Cave D’occi Winery, Cantina Zio Setto, Domaine Chaud, Le CINQ Winery, and Fermier. Cave D’occi produces an original blend for the restaurant. Sake is also available from Niigata breweries Abe Shuzo and Sasaiwai Sake Brewery. It is served in wine glasses except when served warm. Also well-regarded is Swan Lake Beer, a mellow craft beer that is easy to drink.
The restaurant is a calm and relaxing place where you can feel its history of 120 years ago while slipping back in time. It features two rooms with two tables that seat four people. There is also be a space for displaying and selling original tableware and antiques. We hope you will enjoy Niigata’s history and cuisine in a space where time flows slowly.
